It is particularly tunable for lighter riders, so even my daughter uses one on her Anthem X with 120mm SID.

I got one with a spare fork and after I tried it on my main fork I sold all of my other dampers and use the RCT3 on all my forks.

It is possible to arrive at a workable setting but that exact point would change from ride to ride. Adding in LSC by winding the Xloc more to the (+) would improve the wallow/brake dive issue but would also ramp up the HSC and make the fork spike badly. To prevent the fork from spiking and deflecting off high spec comp events you've got to run the xloc fully open and would all the way (-), but then the fork had no LSC which made it wallow badly and dive under brakes. where the poppet is in relation to the orifice in the bottom of the damper tube) and how much the damper tube compresses based on the oil flow. There is no differentiation between HSC and LSC so comp damping is all mixed in together based on where you have the gold adjuster set (ie. All the comp damping is done by the tapered 'poppet' valve in the bottom centre of the damper. For the 'top level damper' it is a remarkably primitive design, essentially being a port orifice compression damper. I attached a photo of the damper as it is on my bike.Ĭlick to expand.Yeah. If it comes out more than a few mm and then goes back in again, you need to bleed. You can check to see if your Xloc system needs a bleed by unscrewing the collar all the way, then pulling outwards on the button when its in the out position. You then screw it in after the system is sealed up to reduce compression damping to suit your weight. When bleeding, it is important the have the 'GATE' collar on the Xloc unscrewed all the way, so that there is maximum volume in the system. Improperly bled remotes don't have enough fluid in them, so the damper has more compression damping in both settings (locked and unlocked) than would be desired. The damper itself is quite nice when the remote is bled properly, which isn't necessarily the case from the factory. However, I don't have any shifters so I can put the (righthand) Xloc on the left side under the bar like a left shifter. I'm a singlespeeder, and I really like the XX damper with Xloc. Then all you have to do is screw the new damper in! Make sure you use the correct weight of suspension oil. Might be worth just changing all your oil at this point. Check oil volumes from SRAM for your new damper and add/remove oil as necessary. Then pull it out of the upper tube and let remaining oil drip off back into the tube. Alternatively, you can use a big adjustable wrench and leave the banjo on and just spin it around. Pull off the banjo and then use a 24 mm socket to unscrew the damper. Use a very small flat screwdriver to pry the end up and then follow it around until it's fully removed. You just have to remove the banjo by removing the very thin helical retaining ring (like a thin keyring) that holds the banjo on. If you have to swap out the damper, you can probably do this yourself as its pretty simple. This is more expensive though as you'll have this extra damper sitting around. Or, you can just buy the compression damper itself from a SRAM dealer and swap it out. Of course, you can buy a new SID with the RCT3 damper instead of the XX damper.

If you don't want to use the Xloc remote, you'll have to buy another damper such as the RCT3 damper, which uses a crown mounted adjuster. So basically, you need the remote attached and bled properly to use the fork. If you remove the remote, or if it loses fluid (such as in a crash when the hose gets ripped off), the piston is fully extended and the damper has maximum low speed compression damping and significant high speed compression damping (the damper has a springy blowoff system).

An internal spring pushes the piston out. When the piston is pushed in, the compression damper is 'off', when the piston is pushed out, the compression damper is 'on/damping'. The Xloc is hydraulic: it simply pushes a piston inside the compression damper, like a hydraulic brake.

Rock shox xloc